The first thing to note is that the original edge on a top quality shear scissor is the best edge it will ever have. The longer the original edge keeps its sharpness, the better is it for you.

As to how often to sharpen your barber or salon shears, there is no set answer because every hair professional is unique. However, good pair of professional hair shears should stay sharp for a year or even two, depending on several factors:

1. The Quality of the Shears

For long lasting sharpness, look for cutting and thinning shears that:
• Are made of Hitachi ATS 314 or VG-10 Gold steel
• Have hand-forged, hand-sharpened, tempered Japanese convex blades

Shears made of J2 steel (Rockwell hardness rating 48-55) will lose their sharpness much faster. Shears made of 440 steel cannot be originally sharpened to as fine an edge as those made of 314 or VG-10. It stands to reason that if shears don’t start out as sharp, they’ll feel duller faster. We highly recommend that you steer clear of so called “professional” hair shears made of 420 steel.

2. Are they Tempered?

Hitachi ATS 314 and VG-10 Gold  steels contain vanadium, molybdenum and titanium and are specifically formulated to maintain sharpness and durability without becoming brittle, a major fault normally associated with hard steels like stainless or 440. This quality is ideal when extreme sharpness is desired, as other steels will not take and hold an edge like VG-10 or 314.

VG-10 Gold and ATS 314 also have the longest lasting original edge through a process called Tempering. While other steels may be tempered, VG-10 and 314 start sharper and stay sharper longer. Here’s how tempering works:

Step 1 (Heat Treating) – First the steel is heated to above 2000 degrees F, then it is rapidly cooled to 450°F to attain a good hardness plus flexibility mix. At this point, the Chromium in the alloy will not accept a long-lasting cutting edge.

Step 2 – (Cold – or “Ice” – Tempering) – Here the steel is cooled to as low as 120°F below zero because it contributes to keeping the edge sharper longer.

When your shears are sharpened, the grinding removes the tempered edge. From this point on you’ll find your shears need sharpening every 2-6 months.

3. How They Are Used

Your shears should stay sharp even longer if:
• You cut mostly clean, damp hair
• You cut less than 15 heads a day

Cutting unwashed hair containing gels and other products will contribute to shortening the life of the original edge.

4. How They Are Cared For

Your shears should stay sharp longer if:
• They are oiled regularly and cleaned after each day’s work
• The cutting surfaces don’t get nicked or scratched

Here are some things to consider when getting your hair shears sharpened.

• The sharpening process removes the tempering on the cutting edge and your shear will now need sharpening every 2 to 6 months
• Shears can be completely ruined by poor or incorrect sharpening and may never feel the same again
• Each sharpening grinds away a little more steel

Sometimes it can make more financial sense to replace rather than sharpen, depending on:

• Your cost of sharpening (usually $35-$55 plus shipping)
• The quality of sharpening. Is it done by the manufacturer or by an individual service person?
• How many times your shears have been sharpened
• The cost of your shears and the cost of a replacement

TopEdge provides top-quality, hand-forged, tempered hair shears at prices that make sense.